Bearded tit Panarus biarmicus

It's no surprise that sparrowhawks take advantage of feeders where their prey are unnaturally concentrated and exposed. Birds are their only food and are very hard to catch. In the woods, most chases are unsuccessful; each carries the risk of disabling injury. Hawks starve in hard winters, especially the small males, and patches of woodland that provide enough prey are scarce in modern landscapes. The sparrowhawk is a native species that has coexisted with our songbirds for millennia and most of the species it takes at feeders are common; hawks are hungry wild birds too, why would we try to limit their activities?
 
The only place small birds are safe is within cover, such as a hedge or bush that the hawk is too big to penetrate. Try not to force small birds to feed in the open. If possible, place feeding stations next to bushes, although if cats are a problem as well, the bushes should be cut clear of the ground and remember too that feeders next to a continuous hedge are vulnerable if the hawk can use it to screen its high-speed approach. Providing cover above feeders, for example by hanging them under a pergola or from tree branches, seems to be helpful; hawks often strike horizontally so escaping upwards is a good tactic.

Sparrowhawks adopt regular hunting routes and although they quickly adapt to obstacles and scarers, changes to their route can temporarily disorientate them, giving prey precious extra seconds. For example, simply moving feeders around the garden every few days can be surprisingly effective, it is also good for hygiene. However, the only really effective method of reducing the 'hit rate' at feeders is by placing them inside a permanent physical barrier such as a wire mesh or netting cage that allows small birds in but keeps hawks out. Alternatively, seed, nut or fat feeders can be pushed right into hedges - small birds will find the food and move along inside the hedge to safety. Place food underneath the hedge for thrushes and blackbirds. You won't be able to watch the birds feeding, but more of them will stay alive.  

Picture by David Marney

 

 

If the bird has any of the following symptoms – drooling, unable to swallow, wet, matted feathers around the face and beak – then it is likely that it has trichomoniasis - i.e. it has been infected with the trichomonad parasite. In this case, the kindest thing to do for the bird is to arrange to have it put to sleep as it will probably starve to death otherwise. If you feed the birds then stop feeding them on the ground and on bird tables for at least two weeks until there are no more sick birds in the area. Empty and disinfect feeders and bird baths using a 10% solution of disinfectant and leave your bird baths dry for the same period. It is still alright to feed the birds using hanging tit feeders but clear up any mess and old food that falls under it daily.  

 
For all other problems please contact the RSPCA  or East Winch Wildlife Rescue 0300 123 0709 Monday – Friday 9 -4 for more advice or call 0300 1234 999 at any time.
 

Picture by Pat Adams
 

If you find a bird that has been ringed please contact the Ringing Unit at the British Trust for Ornithology. If the bird is large you may be able to read the ring without handling it. However, it will be difficult to do this on a small bird, in this case it is ok to pick them up but remember to wash your hands and any equipment you used to handle the dead bird.
 
Please report the ring number and if the bird is dead send the ring along with your letter. Provide as much information as you can about the location of where the bird was found, for example, the nearest town/ grid reference. Also include the date you found the bird and the species if it is known. If the bird was dead please also include any information on the cause of death. Also include your details so the BTO can be in contact.

BTO – Report a bird ring 
 
In the interests of monitoring and understanding the spread of avian influenza (bird flu), Defra ask that you report any dead waterfowl (swans, geese, ducks), gulls, or birds of prey you find. You should also report any other dead wild birds you find in numbers of five or more. You can contact them on the Defra helpline (03459 33 55 77). Do not touch or handle the dead bird if you can avoid it, but if you must, wash your hands thoroughly as soon as possible, keeping your hands away from your face and any food.


If the bird is a pigeon - rings can be reported to The Royal Pigeon Racing Association
 
Please remember to wash your hands after handling any dead bird.  

 

In the interests of monitoring and understanding the spread of avian influenza (bird flu), Defra ask that you report any dead waterfowl (swans, geese, ducks), gulls, or birds of prey you find. You should also report any other dead wild birds you find in numbers of five or more. You can contact them on the Defra helpline (03459 33 55 77). Do not touch or handle the dead bird.

Picture by Julian Thomas

The British Trust for Ornithology carries out many surveys to monitor bird populations and actively seeks assistance from members of the public. For more information, go to their website at www.bto.org. Alternatively you can take part in the RSPB’s Big Garden Birdwatch which normally takes place in January.  

Picture by Pat Adams

 

Bird Feeding Tips:
Firstly, and if you have sufficient storage space, it is far more cost-effective to buy bird food in bulk. Birds need high fat foods such as peanuts, seeds, fat balls and meal worms, which you can get from garden centres and pet shops. Niger seeds and sunflower hearts may seem expensive but, because there is no waste, these foods can be more economical. Store your bird food in a cool, dry, secure place.

Kitchen scraps such as bacon fat, bruised apples and pears, cooked potato, grated cheese, cake crumbs (including left over Christmas cake), raisins, cooked rice and pastry are also welcome; a variety of foods will attract different species of birds. Please ensure that you continue putting out food once you have started as the birds will come to rely on it.

Feeders:
It is important to keep feeders topped up, especially first thing in the morning, when birds are active and replacing energy lost overnight. Fill feeders with peanuts, seed mixes, sunflower hearts and fat balls (don’t use fat balls in nets; birds can get their feet caught in them). Additionally, goldfinches – if you have any nearby – can be attracted with Niger seeds.

Try and put bird feeders in a sheltered spot in the garden, away from the cold wind and well out of the reach of cats. Also use squirrel-proof feeders if squirrels are regular visitors to your garden. Larger feeders are easier to maintain because they don’t need filling up so often; however, if the food is not eaten quickly or adequately sheltered, it may grow mouldy. If any seeds at the bottom of the feeder become soggy, throw them out and let the feeder dry out before you refill it. Rather than rushing to refill feeders during the day, keep a tray underneath them; many seeds will spill throughout the course of the day, and ground-feeding birds can be encouraged to pick these up. Make sure to avoid the spread of disease by cleaning feeders and bird tables regularly.

Ground food:
Because not all birds use feeders, a sprinkling of food on the ground or on a bird table – provided that there are no cats around – will be beneficial. Do not put too much food out on the ground, however, as any which is left over at the end of the day may attract rats.

Garden:
Don’t keep your garden too tidy! Leave seed heads and berries on plants and leave nest boxes up as roosting sites.

Water:
Birds need a supply of clean water every day; not just to drink, but also to wash in. Use bowls if you do not a have a bird bath, and try adding small twigs or ping pong balls to the water – the movement of this makeshift flotsam will prevent the surface of the water from freezing over. Do not use any salt or antifreeze products, as antifreeze is a poison that is lethal to both wildlife and pets.