Robin Erithacus rubecula

The best way to learn is by spending time outside listening to songs and calls with someone who can already recognise them. Most people find it impossible to learn more than a couple of new calls or songs in a day so it's worth focusing in on just a couple of species during a walk. Once you really know the calls made by common species such as robins, wrens, great tits and wood pigeons, it will become progressively easier to pick out anything different.

CDs of bird songs and calls can be helpful too and are available from Norfolk Wildlife Trust at its visitor centres, such as NWT Cley Marshes nature reserve. Wildounds based in Norfolk, offers a huge range of CDs by mail order  and can be contacted via the website www.wildsounds.co.uk .

Many guided walks are organised by NWT on its nature reserves (check event listings on the website for current events) and these often provide opportunities to learn from and with others who will be delighted to share their knowledge.

Picture by Elizabeth Dack

Studies have shown that feeding birds in spring and early summer does increase the success rate of nesting birds especially when weather conditions such as cold, wet weather in spring make foraging for natural foods more difficult.

Regular feeding throughout the year will ensure that birds become accustomed to the sites of feeders and bird tables.

Natural foods for many species are at a peak in late summer and early autumn and this is probably the time when birds benefit least from supplementary feeding but continuing to feed suitable foods will do no harm.

Avoid feeding peanuts from feeders that allow whole nuts to be taken during the breeding season to avoid any chance of young birds being choked.

Adult birds will keep themselves in good condition by using your bird feeders but continue to forage for appropriate food such as invertebrates to feed their young.

Winter feeding, especially during cold spells, can be a lifeline for many birds. As well as providing supplementary foods from feeders it's well worth also managing the habitats in your garden to provide more natural foods.

Picture by Steve Andrews

If rats become a problem at bird feeding sites, it may be necessary to cease feeding for a period to discourage them. Rats are most active at night so removing feeders at night and ensuring no uneaten food remains on the ground overnight will also reduce the likelihood of this problem. Careful location of hanging feeders away from walls covered with ivy or climbing plants will make it harder for rats to access them and pole mounted feeders can be made inaccessible to rats if a slippery metal or plastic pole is used or a collar is mounted below the feeder.

If you wish to deter squirrels from hanging bird feeders, then use squirrel proof metal feeders which allow access to small birds but have a squirrel proof metal mesh preventing access to squirrels. Alternatively use pole mounted feeders sited away from overhanging trees.

Picture by Sue Seeley

Good hygiene at bird feeding stations is important especially during periods of warm weather. Birds are subject to a range of diseases many of which are transmitted by droppings. If food is contaminated with droppings, this can spread avian diseases. Bird tables and feeders should be kept clean and free from droppings. Feeders and tables can be cleaned using a 10% disinfectant solution or boiling water. 

Moving feeders around your garden will help prevent a build up of droppings on the ground below. Food should not be allowed to go mouldy. When cleaning feeders, it is advisable to wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards. On bird tables, or if feeding birds on the ground, do not provide more food than is eaten in a single day and put out new food each morning.

Picture by Robin Blackmur

Plants provide three essential resources for wild birds.

The first, often overlooked, is cover. Birds need shelter and protection from predators and weather for themselves and especially for their nests.
 
Secondly, wild birds need invertebrates, such as tiny caterpillars, aphids, beetle and sawfly larvae, etc., to feed themselves but most importantly to feed their chicks. Even house sparrows, which eat almost entirely seeds as adults, require huge numbers of invertebrates to survive their first few days after hatching.
 
Thirdly, the seeds, berries and fruits of plants are vital food for birds in winter. It follows that to attract and help the most birds; your plants should offer all three of these resources.
 
Cover means hedges and bushes, dense, preferably thorny and absolutely not pruned in summer when thrushes and finches are rearing late broods.Robin boxes, by the way, are useless in the open but readily used if hidden behind a spiny shrub pyracantha and hawthorn are ideal, not only excellent at concealing nests but being native it supports invertebrate larvae and provides the added bonus of autumn berries.Other plants that tick all three boxes include ivy, holly, yew (females for berries), blackthorn and bramble.
 
For invertebrates, native plants are best, but be tolerant; cotoneasters feed moths as well as providing cover and fruit, buddleia from the Himalayas feeds the butterflies while they search for native plants to lay eggs on.Of course, starting from scratch it’s far better to plant native species; barberry, thyme and marjoram, an oak if you have room. For autumn fruit, elder is the king with enough berries for us to share. Apple trees (unsprayed, of course) are also excellent for both invertebrates and fruit. Don’t forget seeds: teasels for goldfinches, honesty for bullfinches, sunflowers for greenfinches.
 
Planting for wildlife can become an absorbing hobby; butterflies and moths, for example, require specific food plants which are easily researched in books or on the Internet. Many of these plants are attractive; a garden that provides a healthy food web for wildlife, rather than a sterile display of alien curiosities, can still be a beautiful garden to enjoy.  

Picture by Melissa Keeble

 

Modern research challenges the old belief that only male birds sing. This was a relic of anthropomorphic assumptions about birds' 'family life', like the long-held belief that small birds are faithfully monogamous partners, now disproved in many species by DNA analysis.

A particular problem in the field is that in many of our common songbirds, such as robin, dunnock and wren, we cannot tell male from female. But, by catching birds of known sex (in the breeding season) and marking them, for example with unique combinations of coloured leg rings, it has been found that in fact females do sing in all these species.

Both male and female robins sing in autumn, a softer, quieter song than the spring song which is mostly (but not exclusively) produced by males. Some female dunnocks sing more than others, for unknown reasons, although their song is shorter and less elaborate than that of the male. Dominant paired females may use it to manipulate their complicated menages of two or more males.

Most singing wrens are indeed male, but females can sing when they choose, and have in addition a unique 'whisper-song' they use to communicate with their chicks.

In fact, all female songbirds produce a wide repertoire of sounds, while feeding, as alarms and for communication with mates and young; many of these could be described as 'song'. The quieter, softer song produced by female birds is often known as 'subsong'; in many species it is produced all year round and is no less important in the birds' lives than the loud territorial song of the male.

Picture by Elizabeth Dack

You should clean your nest box out each year, you should wait until the autumn in case there are any second broods in the box. The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 only permits the cleaning out of nests between 1 August and 31 January, and states that any dead eggs must be destroyed. Make sure you wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards as nesting material can contain parasites and bacteria.

Picture by Elizabeth Dack

In the interests of monitoring and understanding the spread of avian influenza (bird flu), Defra ask that you report any dead waterfowl (swans, geese, ducks), gulls, or birds of prey you find. You should also report any other dead wild birds you find in numbers of five or more. You can contact them on the Defra helpline (03459 33 55 77). Do not touch or handle the dead bird.

Picture by Julian Thomas

The British Trust for Ornithology carries out many surveys to monitor bird populations and actively seeks assistance from members of the public. For more information, go to their website at www.bto.org. Alternatively you can take part in the RSPB’s Big Garden Birdwatch which normally takes place in January.  

Picture by Pat Adams

 

Bird Feeding Tips:
Firstly, and if you have sufficient storage space, it is far more cost-effective to buy bird food in bulk. Birds need high fat foods such as peanuts, seeds, fat balls and meal worms, which you can get from garden centres and pet shops. Niger seeds and sunflower hearts may seem expensive but, because there is no waste, these foods can be more economical. Store your bird food in a cool, dry, secure place.

Kitchen scraps such as bacon fat, bruised apples and pears, cooked potato, grated cheese, cake crumbs (including left over Christmas cake), raisins, cooked rice and pastry are also welcome; a variety of foods will attract different species of birds. Please ensure that you continue putting out food once you have started as the birds will come to rely on it.

Feeders:
It is important to keep feeders topped up, especially first thing in the morning, when birds are active and replacing energy lost overnight. Fill feeders with peanuts, seed mixes, sunflower hearts and fat balls (don’t use fat balls in nets; birds can get their feet caught in them). Additionally, goldfinches – if you have any nearby – can be attracted with Niger seeds.

Try and put bird feeders in a sheltered spot in the garden, away from the cold wind and well out of the reach of cats. Also use squirrel-proof feeders if squirrels are regular visitors to your garden. Larger feeders are easier to maintain because they don’t need filling up so often; however, if the food is not eaten quickly or adequately sheltered, it may grow mouldy. If any seeds at the bottom of the feeder become soggy, throw them out and let the feeder dry out before you refill it. Rather than rushing to refill feeders during the day, keep a tray underneath them; many seeds will spill throughout the course of the day, and ground-feeding birds can be encouraged to pick these up. Make sure to avoid the spread of disease by cleaning feeders and bird tables regularly.

Ground food:
Because not all birds use feeders, a sprinkling of food on the ground or on a bird table – provided that there are no cats around – will be beneficial. Do not put too much food out on the ground, however, as any which is left over at the end of the day may attract rats.

Garden:
Don’t keep your garden too tidy! Leave seed heads and berries on plants and leave nest boxes up as roosting sites.

Water:
Birds need a supply of clean water every day; not just to drink, but also to wash in. Use bowls if you do not a have a bird bath, and try adding small twigs or ping pong balls to the water – the movement of this makeshift flotsam will prevent the surface of the water from freezing over. Do not use any salt or antifreeze products, as antifreeze is a poison that is lethal to both wildlife and pets.