Ash Fraxinus excelsior

The valley fens, unlike the floodplain fens with their breeding Bittern and marsh harrier, are not renowned for their birdlife but are a refuge for a wide range of special plant communities supporting some of the county’s rarest plants. Among these is a wide range of orchids including marsh helleborine, the insect eating sundews and striking grass of Parnassus. The fens are also particularly important for invertebrates: the rare bog bush cricket and extremely rare snails – narrow mouthed whorl snail and Desmoulin’s whorl snail – headline a long list of molluscs that thrive in the damp calcareous soils.

The simple answer to this is yes. Many of the cornfield wildflowers are now classed as ‘weeds’ but can easily be reintroduced by making a wildflower meadow which will provide a nectar source for a wide variety of insects. Another wildlife friendly option is to make an herbaceous border using many of the old fashioned cottage garden plants and perennials. These will not only give a splendid array of colour all summer but will also attract a great number and variety of insects.

It is a strategic vision of our landscape that will help us to create a resilient and healthy environment. The Wildlife Trusts are identifying key areas to protect for wildlife – enlarging, improving and joining them up – across the UK; on nature reserves, in towns and cities, and in partnership with hundreds of other landowners. We need a healthy natural environment to enable wildlife and people to adapt to a changing climate. There are over 100 Living Landscape schemes around the UK, including six for Norfolk: Claylands, Hickling, Wissey valley, Gaywood valley, North Norfolk woods and Bure valley.

These schemes are creating inspirational, accessible landscapes – full of wildlife and rich in opportunities for learning, better health and wellbeing, alongside sustainable economic development.

If you have found a single dead bird there is not much you can do. Always check to see if it is ringed though, and if it is, note the full ring number and report it to the BTO (British Trust For Ornithology) via www.ring.ac or call 01842 750050.

If you find a large number of dead seabirds (10+), then please contact Mark Grantham at the BTO as these may be part of a larger ‘wreck’ in the North Sea.

If you find 10 or more dead wild birds together in the same place, please report this to DEFRA, via their Helpline on 08459 33 55 77. They may wish to have the birds examined for signs of specific diseases. They will advise you on what action you should take.

You may also want to contact Leigh Walker at the Centre for Ecology and Hydrology on 01487 772504 – as they may do a toxicology report.

Mistletoe can be successfully grown from berries but this is by no means easy and it may take many attempts before you succeed.

To increase your chances of success it is best to collect the mistletoe berries in February or early March not at Christmas! You may need to cover a few berries on an existing plant with a net or you run the risk that birds will have eaten them leaving none for you to collect! The seeds will stick to the bark of the trees when the berry is smeared onto a branch. In the wild this is done by mistle thrushes and other birds which are fond of eating the white mistletoe berries but discard the sticky seed by wiping their bills on a convenient branch in the process spreading mistletoe from tree to tree. Mistletoe will only grow on certain tree species and apple trees seem especially receptive. Hawthorn, lime, poplar, whitebeam, pear, field maple and ash are also suitable trees to try.

Chose a young branch with thin, smooth bark and wipe the seed in a shady position such as the north facing side or underside of your chosen branch. There is no need to cut the bark with a knife. You will need patience. It can often take a couple of years before the first pair of mistletoe leaves appear. Prior to that you may if you look carefully spot the fragile green root which is the first sign that your berry has germinated successfully. Remember while mistletoe does not kill trees it is partially parasitic so you may not want to plant it on your best fruit tree! Once it's established it is fine to harvest some each year and both the mistletoe and the host tree should survive for decades.

With their amazing agility and sharp, pointed bills, goldfinches specialise on the tiny seeds of tall herbaceous plants, particularly the thistle family (compositae). These grow in scattered clumps, and don’t provide enough food for a whole season, so goldfinches have to be very mobile and observant. Breeding pairs and, in winter, small flocks appropriately called ‘charms’, search over a wide area for any patches of thistles, teasels and other scruffy ‘weeds’. Few gardeners have the space for large thistles, but teasels are attractive, interesting and easy to grow although as biennials they do not produce seed until their second year. Roving goldfinches will spot any ripening teasels in your garden and pop down to check them out. They will also investigate other food sources nearby; if this happens to include feeders offering modern, thin-skinned black sunflower seed or sunflower hearts, they will readily adopt them. Their beaks are not strong enough to shell old-fashioned striped sunflower seeds; keep these for your hamster.

Niger (or Nyger, or ‘thistle’) seed is also a good attractant; even when larger birds are monopolising the sunflower feeders, sharp-beaked goldfinches can exploit these tiny, rich seeds which come from the plant Guizotia abyssinica, a traditional east-African oil crop. Chicory seeds also work but gardeners beware; chicory seeds prolifically, whereas spilt niger that germinates should perish in winter. If you cannot wait for your own teasels to grow, simply acquire some dry stems (with the landowner’s permission, of course) in late summer. Stick these in a plant pot (filled with pebbles, gravel, etc.) and if goldfinches are in the area, they will spot them. It’s fun and easy to repeatedly re-fill the teasel heads with niger seed. Just use a teaspoon or cut a corner off the bag and sprinkle, most of it will stay in the spikey teasel ‘brushes’ for the goldfinches to find on their next visit, and dunnocks will appreciate any on the ground. However, once attracted, most goldfinches quickly graduate to sunflower hearts, which are more of a meal for less work.

Sparrowhawks are specialist hunters that depend entirely on smaller birds; they can only survive if healthy songbird populations produce a surplus for them to eat. Songbirds oblige: blue tits, for example, typically lay nine eggs, a family of 11 including the parents. For their population to remain stable, only two out of 11 need survive to the following year, nine out of the 11 are available for predators. Of sparrowhawks' main prey species, blue and great tits are increasing while the chaffinch population is stable after increasing recently. Blackbirds did decline between 1970 and 1990 but since 1995 have increased notably, while sparrowhawk numbers have been fairly stable. Collared doves, a favourite sparrowhawk prey, are continuing to increase rapidly (British Trust of Ornithology data). When sparrowhawk numbers crashed in the late 1950's, due to pesticide poisoning, populations of their main prey species, such as great tits, did not boom in response; nor did they decline when sparrowhawk numbers recovered. This demonstrated that other factors, such as food supply and winter weather, are more important in regulating bird populations than sparrowhawk predation.

In East Anglia, we became accustomed to seeing far fewer of our native hawks than would naturally be present; their numbers had been greatly reduced by pesticides and persecution. As sparrowhawks return to the woods of Norfolk it stands to reason that they will affect songbirds in the immediate area and in the short term, by harvesting surplus prey until a natural balance is once more attained. But in the long term, this natural balance is as vital for the predator as for the prey. The basic logic and arithmetic of the predator/prey relationship, the national population trends for their main prey species and the historical 'experiment' of sparrowhawk suppression all suggest that, considered overall and assuming a healthy environment, sparrowhawks and their prey live together in a natural balance.

Native trees are much better than non-native trees for attracting wildlife to your garden. This is because native trees house a wider variety of invertebrates, which in turn attract mammals and birds. Trees with lots of interesting features such as dead branches, splits, and hollows support the widest range of invertebrates, so try not to ‘tidy up’ trees unless they are unsafe.

Different trees will attract different species. Acorns from oak trees will attract squirrels, jays and woodpigeons. Cones from alder trees attract goldfinches. Dense trees such as yew and holly provide good habitat for greenfinches. Beech trees attract tits and chaffinches, but few insects. Berries from rowan and ash will attract many bird species. Willow trees host more than 90 species of moth caterpillar, which in turn will attract bats. Birch trees attract many species of birds, insects and caterpillars. Treecreepers nest in large, mature trees with loose bark, while hollow branches provide perfect habitat for tawny owls.

There are three newt species found in the UK – the great crested, the smooth or common newt and the palmate newt. Only the great crested and smooth newts are now widespread in Norfolk with the palmate newt being confined to a very small number of sites.

The great crested newt is the largest species at about 15cm long. Their topside is very dark brown or black and the underside is orange or yellow with irregular black spots. The males have a distinctive and large serrated crest during the breeding season. Great-crested newts have full protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981.

The smooth or common newt is about 8-10cm long and has a pale grey-brown body with a bright yellow or orange underside with dark spots. A distinguishing feature is the presence of spots on the underside of their throat. During the breeding season males have a continuous wavy crest running along the back and also along the underside of the tail.

The palmate newt is very similar in size and colour to the smooth newt; however the males do not have a very pronounced crest and have webbed hind feet. Females are more difficult to differentiate but the best way is to look at the throat which in palmate is usually a pale/translucent pink colour without spots.

Common Frogs have a moist smooth skin which can be quite variable in colour ranging from brown, green or grey with dark blotches to yellowish or orange with red blotches. However, all common frogs have a distinct brown patch behind each eye which is not present in common toads. Common Toads are far less variable and are usually a mottled mid-brown colour and have a granular or warty appearance.

Another useful feature is to look at the nose – that of the common frog will be pointed whereas that of the common toad will be blunt giving a much more rounded profile. The method of locomotion also varies with common frogs tending to leap and common toads tending to waddle or crawl along.

During the breeding season male common frogs make a quiet low-pitched call and inhabit ponds and ditches with shallow edges whereas common toads make a louder, higher croak and favour deeper water. Frogspawn is laid in familiar jelly-like clumps, while toads lay long, gelatinous ‘strings’. Frog and toad tadpoles can also be told apart: frog tadpoles are mottled brownish-grey to olive with gold speckles, while toad tadpoles remain jet black.

Five species of bumblebee, which twenty years ago were classed as widespread and common, are now endangered. The reason for the decline of some bumblebees species is not fully understood. The common theory is that there are fewer wildflowers, due to the change in traditional haymaking practices and the use of weedkillers. The removal of suitable nesting sites, such as hedgerows, could also have played a part.

Changes in gardening practices may also have had an impact. Increased use of insecticides, the fashion for flowers which have no scent and do not produce nectar could all have played a part, along with tidying up of gardens which removes potential nest sites.

If you have found a small hedgehog in November or December, which weighs less than 600gms (21oz), keep it warm and try to fatten it up so that it can survive hibernation over winter. The best food to put out for your hedgehog is cat or dog food – although avoid fish based ones. Don’t put out bread and milk as these could make the hedgehog ill.

If you are concerned about your hedgehog contact The RSPCA Wildlife Centre, at East Winch, King's Lynn on 0300 123 0709.

The Swallowtail’s breeding sites are restricted to the Norfolk Broads. The Swallowtail requires sites which have a vigorous growth of Milk Parsley – its favoured food plant - where it will lay its eggs on the tallest plants. They can usually be found at
NWT Hickling Broad, RSPB Strumpshaw Fen and How Hill nature reserve.



Any rising of water levels or increase in salinity will effect the growth of the Milk Parsley. However Milk Parsley has the potential to grow in other areas and will move if there is suitable habitat. Active management of fenland, where sedge is cut to allow other plants to grow, plays an important part in the survival of the swallowtail in Norfolk.

Occasionally migrant Swallowtails from the continent can be found in Southern Britain but these are a different sub-species (gorganus) to those found in Norfolk (britannicus).

You should clean out your bird box each year, you should wait until the autumn incase there are any second broods in the box. The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 only permits the cleaning out of nests between 1 August and 31 January, and states that any dead eggs must be destroyed. Make sure you wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards as nesting material can contain parasites and bacteria.

Trichomoniasis is a disease in birds caused by a trichomonad parasite – Trichomonas gallinae. In the UK it usually affects pigeons and doves (when it is called ‘canker’) and birds of prey that have fed on infected birds (when it is called ‘frounce’). It mainly affects ground-feeding birds but has recently spread to species, such as greenfinches and chaffinches (although it has also been found in sparrows and blackbirds).

The affected birds are unable to eat because the parasite causes their throats to swell and the birds usually die of starvation as a result. The parasite thrives in damp places and is spread via the saliva and possibly the droppings of infected birds around feeding and bathing areas. Symptoms include drooling, difficulty swallowing and regurgitation of food. The feathers around the face and beak are often matted and wet as well. Sick birds often look ill and are lethargic and won’t fly away when approached.

The parasite can not be passed on to humans or mammals but poultry and aviary and pet birds can be affected. While the disease can be treated in domestic birds it is difficult to treat wild birds because of the practicalities involved. However, making sure bird baths, feeders and tables and the areas around them are kept clean it is possible to reduce the risk of birds getting infected.

If you find sick and/or dead birds in your garden then please stop feeding the birds on the ground and bird tables for at least two weeks until there are no more sick birds in the area (it is still alright to use hanging tit feeders). Also clean out your bird bath, if you have one, and leave it dry during the same period. The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds is monitoring the situation so please report any sick or dead birds that you find to their Wildlife Enquiries Team either via their websiteRSPB. or on 01767 693690 (office hours only).

If the bird has any of the following symptoms – drooling, unable to swallow, wet, matted feathers around the face and beak – then it is likely that it has trichomoniasis - i.e. it has been infected with the trichomonad parasite. In this case, the kindest thing to do for the bird is to arrange to have it put to sleep as it will probably starve to death otherwise. If you feed the birds then stop feeding them on the ground and on bird tables for at least two weeks until there are no more sick birds in the area. Empty and disinfect feeders and bird baths using a 10% solution of disinfectant and leave your bird baths dry for the same period. It is still alright to feed the birds using hanging tit feeders but clear up any mess and old food that falls under it daily. The RSPB is monitoring the outbreak of trichomoniasis so please contact their Wildlife Services Team either via their website RSPB. or ring them on 01767 693690 to tell them what you have found.

For all other problems please contact the RSPCA on 0300 123 0709 for more advice.

If you find a bird that has been ringed please contact the Ringing Unit at the BTO  If the bird is a large you may be able to read the ring without handling it. However, it will be difficult to do this on a small bird, in this case it is ok to pick them up but remember to wash your hands and any equipment you used to handle the dead bird.

Please report the ring number and if the bird is dead send the ring along with your letter. Provide as much information you can about the location of where the bird was found, for example, the nearest town/ grid reference. Also include the date you found the bird and the species if it is known. If the bird was dead please also include any information on the cause of death. Also include your details so the BTO can be in contact.

Any unusual deaths especially in large birds such as swans should be reported to Defra. 08459 335577 Defra hotline.

If the bird is a pigeon rings can be reported to The Royal Pigeon Racing Association

Please remember to wash you hands after handling any dead bird.

The swallowtail butterfly is now limited to the Norfolk Broads choosing sites with a vigorous growth of milk parsley, where it lays its eggs on the tallest plants. Although a rare British insect, if you go to the right place, such as NWT Hickling Broad, NWT Ranworth Broad or RSPB Strumpshaw Fen, at the right time, early morning on a windless day (usually from late May to mid-July and if there is a second brood from mid–August through September), then with luck you will spot one.

Hares are larger than rabbits and have longer ears with black tips. They also have longer hind legs. When they run, rabbits cock their tails up so you see the white flash of their ‘scut’ whereas hares usually hold their tails down so you don’t see the white underside.

Murkiness or algal blooms in ponds are usually caused by single cell plants (phytoplankton) which live on any free nutrients in the water.

Introducing zooplankton, the best known is daphnia or water fleas, can clear a cloudy pond but in order to keep the pond clear there needs to be a good community of larger aquatic plants including deeper – water species.

 You can get further advice about the type of plants these are atn www.froglife.org.

Otter populations crashed to near extinction across most of lowland England by the mid 1970’s as a result of pesticide poisoning, loss of habitat and hunting. Otters were released by the Otter Trust in Norfolk between 1984 and 1997 with the approval of the statutory conservation bodies existing at the time; there have been no releases since then (other than orphaned otters which are released by the RSPCA as close as possible to the location that they came from).  It is worth pointing out that since the 1970s, otters have also spread naturally from western lowland England back across the Midlands into eastern England, so the release programme simply speeded up their natural re-colonisation of Norfolk.

The basic advice is to leave it alone. If your pond is of a reasonable size and depth a covering of ice is unlikely to do any harm and is a natural occurrence that native wildlife is conditioned to cope with. Ice forming over shallow water may have an adverse effect on any frogs that are hibernating in the mud and in these circumstances it may be best to gently melt the ice by placing a saucepan of hot water on top. Smashing the ice is not recommended as the shock waves could harm wildlife and any fish.

If the ice looks like staying for a while it would be a good idea to melt an area over any shallow water so that birds can bathe and drink.

Expanding ice can damage a garden pond by putting excessive pressure on the pond walls. To prevent this float a plastic ball on the surface of the pond during cold weather, if the pond then freezes the ball will absorb some of this pressure helping to protect your expensive liner.

Good hygiene at bird feeding stations is important especially during periods of warm weather. Birds are subject to a range of diseases many of which are transmitted by droppings. If food is contaminated with droppings, this can spread avian diseases. Bird tables and feeders should be kept clean and free from droppings. Feeders and tables can be cleaned using a 10% disinfectant solution or boiling water. Moving feeders will help prevent a build up of droppings on the ground below. Food should not be allowed to go mouldy. When cleaning feeders, it is advisable to wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards. On bird tables, or if feeding birds on the ground, do not provide more food than is eaten in a single day and put out new food each morning.

Possibly the best place in Britain to view wild common cranes in winter is NWT Hickling Broad. Between November and February from the Stubb Mill raptor roost viewpoint, common cranes can be seen coming in to roost at sunset. (As well as the cranes, large numbers of marsh harriers are almost guaranteed in the roost, with occasional sightings of hen harrier, merlin and barn owl.)

In spring and summer, cranes are very vulnerable to disturbance at breeding sites but sightings of flying and feeding birds are regularly seen in the Hickling, Horsey, Winterton area of the Norfolk Broads.

Visitors to NWT Hickling Broad, during visitor centre opening periods, can obtain further information on opportunities to view cranes from the centre staff.

Parking is not available at Stubb Mill raptor viewpoint, therefore please park at NWT Hickling Broad car park – walking directions can be found on the orientation station located near the visitor centre (it's roughly a fifteen minute walk along an often muddy track, so wellington boots are recommended).

One of Norfolk’s great wildlife spectacles is the sight and sound of huge flocks of pink footed geese in winter. The best viewpoints to see geese flying in and out of traditional roosts at dawn and dusk are at Snettisham RSPB reserve in West Norfolk and on the coast at Brancaster and Wells next the Sea in North Norfolk.

Sunset or sunrise between November and February are the best times to view big numbers. The fields either side of Lady Ann's Drive at Holkham are excellent places to view big numbers of geese during the day and, as well as pink footed geese, you are likely to see brent geese, greylag geese, Canada geese and white-fronted geese. The Washington hide at Holkham (15 minutes walk west on the inland side of the pines from Lady Anne’s Road) is a great goose viewing point and at dusk birds fly on to the marshes to drink and bathe before going to roost.

You may also see large flocks of pink footed geese feeding on sugar beet fields several miles inland of the North Norfolk coast – the Docking to Burnham Market area is a good area but exact locations vary each year. Please avoid disturbing these feeding birds by going on to private farmland.

Flocks of pink footed geese may number several thousand but flocks of other species, such as brent geese, are usually much smaller numbering in the hundreds.

Use survey form k.

Many wild flowers are confined to particular habitats such as woodlands, wetlands or meadows. Some plants will only grow on particular soil types. Getting to know the complete range of wild flowers in your local area is a fun and rewarding activity but will involve visiting the full range of habitats at several different times of year.

Unless you are part of an enthusiastic team this may be impractical during the course of a single growing season, and it may be more manageable to select a smaller area, say a roadside verge, and try to build a comprehensive picture of what is growing there over the course of a year. You can extend your survey in subsequent years to cover other habitats.

A good method of surveying plants in a large area such as a meadow will be to mark out a representative area of say, 5m x 5m or use a small quadrat at regular intervals over the complete area.

As well as listing the plants you find try to estimate the percentage of the area covered by individual species by using the following key:

Code D = species makes up more than 50% of area and/or is the dominant species.

Code A = species is abundant and makes up between 26% and 50% of area.

Code F = species is frequently encountered and makes up between 11% and 25% of area.

Code O = species is occasionally encountered and makes up between 5% and 10% of area.

Code R = species is rare and makes up less than 5% of the area.

If possible carry out this survey at least three times during a year:

• Spring – March/April
• Early Summer – June/July
• Late Summer – August/September

Giant hogweed is an impressive plant and can reach heights of up to 5-6 metres. It is therefore much taller and has altogether larger dimensions than any related native plant. The plant is not native to the UK, and was introduced from south-west Asia in 1893 as an ornamental plant. The hollow stems are green with reddish-purple blotches, and up to 100 mm across. The leaves are dark green and jagged, ending in a spike, and arranged in rosettes around the stem. The many small white flowers appear in June or July and form an umbrella-shaped head (umbel) up to 500 mm across. It can take up to four years for a Giant hogweed to flower, but each plant can produce 50 – 80,000 seeds

Giant hogweed grows well where the soil has been disturbed, such as wasteground, roadsides and riverbanks. Here they will shade out native vegetation. The seeds are easily dispersed by water, so it is often seen spreading along watercourses. It is widespread in Norfolk with ‘hot-spots’ to the south and east of Norwich. After flowering, the whole plant dies off. This can cause problems with soil erosion if large areas of riverbanks are left bare over the winter.

NOTE: Giant hogweed is a toxic plant and a public health hazard. The stems, edges and undersides of the leaves have small hairs which contain poisonous sap. The slightest touch causes the skin to become photo-sensitive, so that exposure to sunlight causes severe burns and blistering. For this reason, protective clothing must be worn when dealing with this species.

Telephone for help immediately.

While help is on the way:

1) If you can find adequate assistance, gently roll the animal over onto its front and keep the skin wet by dousing with seawater. Do not pull on its fins or tail and be very careful not to get water down the blowhole.

2) Keep dogs and crowds away and reduce noise and sudden movement to reduce stress.

3) Do not attempt to drag the animal.

4) Be very careful of the teeth and tail – these are large, powerful animals.

The telephone numbers to ring are:

British Divers Marine Life Rescue – 01825 765 546

RSPCA Hotline – 0300 123 0709

Dead animals should be reported to the National Strandings Co-ordinator at the Natural History Museum – 0207 942 5155

General Health Issues:

Marine animals can carry diseases which are transferable to humans, and they can cause injury:

1) Approach carefully and if in doubt wait for help.

2) Do not attempt to move heavy animals without adequate assistance.

3) Always wash your hands thoroughly after contact.

4) Children are at particular risk and should be kept well away.

This information has been taken from the poster written by the Marine Animal Rescue Coalition (MARC) and produced by the CRRU in collaboration with BDMLR and WDCS

Use survey form f.

The best times to survey reptiles are in the morning (between 8.30 – 11am) and in the late afternoon/early evening (between 4 – 6.30pm), when they will most likely be basking in favoured locations. In peak summer, when temperatures are high, the period during which reptiles will bask is likely to be shorter than in the cooler spring months because they will take less time to warm up.

Surveying dry habitats requires stealth and patience. Reptiles are well camouflaged and secretive, so to catch sight of them is not easy. A key to success will be familiarity with your survey area and prior identification of the likely hot-spots.

For maximum success and efficiency your visits should coincide with the most suitable conditions. Move slowly and quietly using light steps over the terrain, stopping frequently to scan the ground in front and to the side of you. Try to position yourself in relation to the sun to ensure your movements do not throw shadows onto hot-spots, which could alarm the creatures before you are able to see them. Do not lose heart if you fail to see anything to begin with – your success rate will improve over time as you gain experience and ‘get your eye in’.

Safety first

Adders are venomous, but will usually only bite if an attempt is made to pick them up. Their bite is rarely fatal but symptoms that may occur include dizziness, vomiting and swelling. If you or somebody with you is bitten whilst surveying amphibians and reptiles you should:

• Stay calm.
• Seek immediate medical attention.
• If possible, immobilise the affected body part.

(Surveying amphibians and reptiles)

Different methods should be used for surveying amphibians and reptiles. Perhaps the best method of surveying reptiles is to provide a number of artificial refuges; pieces of corrugated iron, roofing felt, plywood, roofing tiles (Norfolk pantiles will work well) or squares of old carpet can be place in the areas you judge most likely to attract basking reptiles, such as woodland edges or grassy banks. The refuges work by providing a safe, predator-free shelter which absorbs heat and allows the animals to warm up quickly.

Refuges should be placed about 100 metres apart and left for a couple of weeks before they are checked so that the reptiles can get used to using them without disturbance. When checking for reptiles it is recommended you wear a thick pair of gloves (in case adders are present) or even use a stout stick or cane. Carefully lift up the cover  to a vertical position, being alert for any movements beneath. Always replace the refuge in exactly the same position.

Top tips for using refuges:

• When on private land be sure to obtain prior permission from the landowner to use refuges.
• Avoid using refuges in areas which are likely to be frequented by lots of people.
• Give each refuge a number to clearly record its location.
• Place refuges in sunny locations.
• Do not comstruct your refuge from brightly coloured or shiny materials; they may attract undesirable attention.
• Ensure that you remove the refuges at the end of the survey period.

Use Survey Form F to record your findings.

Safety first

Adders are venomous but will usually only bit if an attempt is made to pick them up. Their bite is rarely fatal but symptoms that may occur include dizziness, vomiting and swelling. If you or somebody with you is bitten you should:

• Stay calm.
• Seek immediate medical attention.
• If possible, immobilise the affected body part.

What are the best reptile hot-spots?

• Sand dunes
• Forest rides and glades
• Woodland edges
• Brash piles
• Manure/compost heaps
• Railway cuttings and embankments
• Rough grass, for example as found in churchyards and allotments
• Commons and heaths
• Marshy ground and bogs
• Dykes, tracks and path edges

A surprising number of birds use gardens for feeding, breeding and roosting. Keeping a list of the species seen or heard when you are surveying birds is a simple way to find out about the diversity in a given area.

No special expertise is involved and the survey can be extended to cover parks and other open spaces.

Remember when making a wildlife record to make a note of the ‘Four W's’:

What – identify the bird.
Where – note where you saw it (ideally including a gridreference).
When – record the date you saw it.
Who – include your contact details.

 

Use Survey Form C.

Obtaining information on the diversity and density of breeding birds in a given area is a very good way of monitoring the health of the local environment. Many birds have special requirements before they will breed, and finding out what is breeding and where will help pinpoint areas of special conservation importance.

• Create a map of the area in which you are surveying birds and mark out your survey route. This survey can be undertaken within a defined area such as a parish, a woodland or maybe a 2km x 2km square on the Ordnance Survey map. These squares are known as ‘tetrads’ because they cover an area of 4 square km, and are a popular choice among bird watchers when choosing a survey area.
• Make a note of the habitat types present, e.g. woodland, scrub, urban etc.
• Make at least two visits during the course of the breeding season (early April to end of June) to target both the early nesting resident species and later, the summer migrants.
• Plot every bird seen or heard on the map using the specific identification codes given on the survey form.
• Record the breeding status of the bird by applying one of the following breeding codes:

1.  S = Male Singing repeatedly in suitable breeding habitat.
2. B = Bird seen nest Building, carrying nesting material to likely breeding site or excavating nesting holes etc.
3. N = Occupied Nest – bird seen incubating, nest with eggs or bird seen feeding young/carrying food or faecal sac.
4. CD = Courtship Display.
5. A = Agitated behaviour or anxiety calls from adults.
6. D = Distraction – display or feigning injury.
7. Y = Recently fledged Young seen.
8. UN = Used Nest or eggshells found from this season. 

A sample survey form can be found here (survey form C).

Fungi are often associated with woodlands, and so this is probably a good habitat in which to start looking. In particular, check woods that are well-established with a wide variety of native species – these tend to have the longest fungus lists.

Other good habitats to investigate when surveying fungi include:

• Mown (or grazed) grass under isolated, mature trees; these may occur in gardens, parks, cemeteries and even roadside banks.
• Dry grassland is an interesting habitat and may be home to waxcaps, pink gills, spindle fungi and earthtongues.

You can look for moths during daylight hours. Several species fly by day and it is also possible to find resting night-flying moths by looking on tree trunks, sheds, walls and fences. Areas beneath street lamps, porch lights, garage forecourts and public buildings will often reveal species that would otherwise be hidden. Try looking on sallow blossom in spring and ripe or rotten blackberries and windfall fruit, as well as ivy blossom, in autumn.

Another method of daylight recording is to look for moth caterpillars. This is a reliable way of confirming a species breeds in a given area.

Try looking for droppings or damaged leaves on plants. This need not be as tricky as it sounds since the hawkmoth caterpillars, for example, deposit droppings (frasse) several millimetres in diameter.

You can search by:

• Close-up scrutiny of specific food plants.
• A more general sweeping of vegetation with a fine net.
• Suspending a white sheet beneath trees and shrubs and gently tapping the vegetation to dislodge the larvae.

As always when surveying invertebrates, certain things should be observed. Caterpillars should be handled gently or, in the case of the hairier caterpillars, not at all (some will cause a rash on sensitive skin), and returned to the vegetation after recording.

Do’s and Don’ts to moth trapping

Do’s…

• Do obtain permission from the landowner before setting up the trap on private land.
• Do ensure the moth trap is sited so as not to cause a nuisance to motorists, private residences or to navigation.
• Do ensure that the electrical components are constructed to comply with UK legal standards by a suitably qualified person.
• Do run the trap all night if in the garden. If the light is switched off during the hours of darkness most of the moths will escape.

Don’ts…

• Don’t run a moth trap in the same place too often, and certainly not on consecutive nights, as this could interfere with the moth’s breeding cycle or prevent them from feeding. It will also become a ‘bird table’!
• Don’t release large numbers of moths in a single place, as this will attract predators. Instead, let them go after recording and disperse them over a wide area of the garden, ideally in borders or dense cover, so that birds will not find them. This is vital if large catches in high summer are experienced.
• Don’t continue trapping if you see evidence of birds visiting the moth trap; if this occurs it is best to cease trapping in that area and select another location.

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Two simple tricks you can use when surveying invertebrates:

Making a sugar solution

Making up a sugar solution is a very effective way of attracting a variety of moth species. Some species seem to ignore the conventional moth trap but will be attracted to the strong scents of such a sweet recipe. The mixture should be painted onto something like a tree stump or a fence post which can be inspected periodically to see what has turned up. A word of warning – the mixture is very pungent and very sticky and should not be used in situations where people will come into contact with it the following day.

Ingredients

500ml bottle of dark beer/stout
1kg dark molasses sugar
0.5kg dark treacle
Dash of rum
Vanilla essence

Method

Place the ingredients (except the rum) in a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring continuously. Let the mix simmer for 5-10 minutes and then allow it to cool. When the temperature has decreased add no more than 10ml of rum, thoroughly stir. Store the solution in glass bottles or jars and add vanilla essence just before deployment.

Making a wine rope

Wine ropes are lengths of thick string or mop heads that soak up lots of liquid and are immersed for a short while in a solution of red wine and either sugar or runny honey. The soaked bait is draped over branches or foliage at dusk. This will attract a range of species to feed.

Providing a regular food supply whilst surveying mammals can be a good way of drawing those which you know to be present closer to your house. Placing kitchen scraps, small amounts of meat-based cat or dog food (but not fish, which upsets the digestive system of some mammals), fruit, seeds, peanuts and especially mealworms on a patio or on the lawn during the evening is sure to attract hedgehogs, foxes, small mammals and, if you are particularly fortunate, perhaps a badger.

You can even create a purpose built mammal feeding station close to your house so you can observe in comfort. A word of warning – if you wish to avoid attracting brown rats you should not leave the food out all night.

If you are able to obtain some owl pellets from your local area, they can help provide a fascinating insight into the small mammals which are present. The best places to search for owl pellets when surveying mammals will be in regular roosting sites (especially old barns and outbuildings), but it is extremely important that the owls are not disturbed. The best time to search will therefore be outside the main breeding season (we suggest to look between September and January) and you must obtain the landowner’s permission before visiting a likely site. Alternatively, you may be able to persuade the landowner to collect some pellets for you.

When you have some owl pellets for dissection you will need the following equipment:

• White tray
• Tweezers or cocktail sticks
• Hand lens
• Thin disposable polythene or plastic gloves
• Small mammal skull and bone identification chart
• Blotting paper or kitchen towels
• Antiseptic hand wash

Fill the tray with approximately 2cm of warm water and soak the pellet for a few minutes before attempting dissection. Gently prise the pellet apart using your tweezers or cocktail sticks and when you find a skull or some bones gently tease any fur or other matter from it and wash it in water. When the skull or bone is sufficiently clean place it on the blotting paper or kitchen towel so that any excess moisture can soak away. Compare your skull or bone with your ID chart to make a positive identification. You may need a little practice but you will be amazed at just how much information and how many animal remains can be found in just a single pellet.

If you do not want to dissect owl pellets but have access to a supply, or if you happen upon some whilst out surveying, you can still collect them and send them to The Mammal Society, who are running an owl pellet survey.

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Many wild flowers are confined to particular habitats such as woodlands, wetlands or meadows. Some plants will only grow on particular soil types. Getting to know the complete range of wild flowers in your local area is a fun and rewarding activity but will involve visiting the full range of habitats at several different times of year.

Unless you are part of an enthusiastic team this may be impractical during the course of a single growing season, and it may be more manageable to select a smaller area - a roadside verge, for instance - and try to build a comprehensive picture of what is growing there over the course of a year. You can extend your survey in subsequent years to cover other habitats.

A good method of surveying plants in a large area such as a meadow will be to mark out a representative area (5m x 5m is a good size area for surveying plants) or use a small quadrat at regular intervals over the complete area.

As well as listing the plants you find, try to estimate the percentage of the area covered by individual species by using the following key:

1. Code D = the species makes up more than 50% of the area and/or is the Dominant species.
2. Code A = the species is Abundant and makes up between 26% and 50% of the area.
3. Code F = the species is Frequently encountered and makes up between 11% and 25% of the area.
4. Code O = the species is Occasionally encountered and makes up between 5% and 10% of the area.
5. Code R = the species is Rare and makes up less than 5% of the area.

If possible carry out this survey at least three times during a year:

• Spring – March/April
• Early Summer – June/July
• Late Summer – August/September

An ancient wood is classed as being an area that has been continuously wooded since 1600. Surveying woodland which is ancient is well worthwhile as they are usually very rich in wildlife, as well as being extremely important habitats.

There are several methods of establishing if the wood is ancient including:

Using maps to identify ancient woodlands

Looking at a map or an aerial photograph can give you vital evidence as to whether the woodland is ancient. Your local library or the websites below are a good starting point as they will normally hold the following documents:

• First edition Ordnance Survey Maps – www.old-maps.co.uk
• Faden’s Map of Norfolk (1797) – www.fadensmapofnorfolk.co.uk
• Bryant’s Map of Norfolk (1826)
• Norfolk Domesday Book – www.domesdaybook.co.uk/norfolk.html

It’s all in a name…

The name of a woodland may give you a clue as to whether it is ancient. Does the name incorporate the old names for ‘wood’ (grove, hanger or lea), or suggest an old industry (e.g. tanner, kiln or brick-kiln)?

Ancient woodland plant indicators

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Carry out a woodland survey; if you find five or more of the following plant species in the wood, it is quite possible that the woodland is ancient.

• Bluebell
• Wood anemone
• Wood sorrel
• Yellow archangel
• Wild garlic
• Early purple orchid
• Primrose

For a full list of plants indicative of ancient woodland click here.

The presence of ancient woodland indicator species does not necessarily mean that the woodland is definitely ancient. You must also look to see if it has other ancient woodland characteristics, such as:

• Glades
• Ponds
• Pollards
• Old coppice stools
• Ancient wood banks
• High proportion of dead wood
• Boundary ditches
• Boundaries are irregular shape
• Runs along a stream

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As a guideline, if the girth of your tree is greater than the following measurements, it is likely to be an ancient tree:

Species	Girth
Hawthorn Field maple, rowan Alder, ash, beech Lime, oak, sycamore Sweet chestnut, yew	2.5m 3m 5m 5.5m 6m

NB: The girth of the tree trunk is measure at 1.5m from the ground, all the way around the trunk. Surveying woodlands

Many traditional practices such as gamekeeper’s gibbets, charcoal burning, chair bodging, harvesting of coppice poles and gathering wild foods have died out – sadly, there are usually few written records of these activities. However, there may be older local residents who can still remember details of the history of the wood, or have old photos or records. Making a note of these can help build up a history of the wood.

When surveying woodlands, why not take note of current ways local woods are used and managed through photos and written accounts? This could produce a record which will be valuable in the future.

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The books and websites listed in this section will give you an idea of the species likely to be seen. Some guidebooks may give you the impression that few species are seen off the East Anglian coast; this is because little research has been done in our part of the North Sea by the people who write the books! When surveying coast, you have every chance of finding an animal or plant which has never been recorded in Norfolk.

What do we include on the survey form?

It is important to note whether the species is alive or dead – empty seashells, dried starfish and brittle dried seaweed are good examples of dead species which can still be recorded. Some animals found in the strandline after a storm, such as starfish and crabs, may still be alive. They should be recorded as such and, if possible, returned to the sea.

Be careful not to record anything which has been brought to the beach by people (fishing bait, such as octopus and squid, for example). Remember: if in doubt, leave it out!

Comparing old maps with more recent maps and aerial photographs can help reveal what  has happened to the hedgerows in your parish. Looking at tithe maps, enclosure maps, estate maps and early editions of the Ordnance Survey may help you create a picture of where hedgerows were planted in your parish. The Norfolk Records Office would be a good starting point in your search for old maps, or you may like to take a look at these websites:

First edition Ordnance Survey Maps – www.old-maps.co.uk
Faden’s Map of Norfolk (1797) – www.fadensmapofnorfolk.co.uk
Norfolk Domesday Book – www.domesdaybook.co.uk/norfolk.html

Your research may reveal hedges in your parish that are quite old (dating before the enclosure acts of 1750 – 1860). Some hedges may even be formed from remnants of ancient woodland; surveying hedgerows such as these is definitely worthwhile.

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Norfolk’s churchyards provide important refuges for six wild flower species. These are:

• Burnet-saxifrage – Pimpinella saxifrage
• Cowslip – Primula veris
• Lady’s bedstraw – Galium verum
• Meadow saxifrage – Saxifraga granulate
• Oxeye daisy – Leucanthenum vulgare
• Pignut – Conopodium majus

Surveying churchyards could unearth a local population of these beautiful wild flowers - why not try and find them?

Click here for techniques on how to survey for wild flowers.

When surveying meadows, the following features are indicators that the grassland is unimproved:

• Ant hills – these indicate that a grassland has not been ploughed for some years.
• General colour – wild flower rich grasslands from a distance appear as a mosaic of greens, browns and yellows. This is caused by the presence of many grass species rather than the single or very limited range in a seeded grassland.
• A tussocky sward – improved grasslands usually lack structure so look for grasslands which are textured with lots of tussocks and uneven growth.
• Uneven topography with hollows and hillocks, grassland on steep slopes (all may indicate that grassland has not been ploughed in recent).
• Presence of indicator species of wild flowers – large areas of plants such as oxeye daisy, ragged-robin, or meadow buttercup in spring and summer may be quite easy to spot from a distance. A single species spotted from a distance will not prove that you have found old grassland but may indicate a site worth surveying.

Occasionally landowners will sow a mixture of arable weeds, such as poppies and cornflowers, onto field margins or sometimes complete fields. These are often temporary features and should not be confused with genuine unimproved grasslands which will contain many more species and include some or all of the features mentioned above.

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If you are surveying meadows and want to monitor the impact of your management on a plant species - or if you want to repeat surveys at the same grassland site over a number of years - then using a quadrat is a good technique. Using a quadrat will help you notice the less conspicuous plants within the grassland and provides a simple way of gaining some information on the abundance of different species. A quadrat is a square frame usually 0.5 x 0.5m or 1 x 1m. For ease of carrying it can be made so that it will fold. Quadrats are typically used in one of two ways:

• At random – on small sites you can simply stand in the centre of the site and throw the quadrat in different directions sampling wherever it falls.
• Along a transect – this is probably the best way if you want to repeat the survey at different times of the year or on a regular basis over several years. Mark out a line using a measuring tape and poles (bamboo canes are light and easy to carry) and then place the quadrat at repeated intervals along the line. Depending on the size of the site every five or ten metres may be appropriate.

Whether using the ramdom technique or the transect, a minimum of five quadrat records should be made.

For each plant species identified within your quadrat estimate the percentage of the quadrat area covered using the following codes:

Code D = species is dominant and makes us more that 50% of area.

Code A = species is abundant and makes up between 26% and 50% of area.

Code F = species is frequently encountered and makes up between 11% and 25% of area.

Code O = species is occasionally encountered and makes up between 5% and 10% of area.

Code R = species is rare and makes up less than 5% of the area.

If you wish to use your transect over several years it is worth considering some way of permanently marking the position of the transect line (with metal pegs, for example), whilst ensuring that this does not become a safety hazard or obstruct future management work on the site. It is also interesting to keep a photographic record of each quadrat, as this will also build up a visual record of any changes over time.

It is quite possible nowadays to obtain a relatively inexpensive, high quality digital camcorder which will take pictorial recording to another level. Not only are these quite simple to operate, but modern software allows you to edit your footage on a PC in the comfort of your own home. You can transfer your output to CD or DVD and make it available to local residents, parish councils and libraries, and/or you could place it on a website to allow worldwide access.

You may not win an Oscar, but…

• Use a tripod – this is the only sure way to avoid camera shake.
• Don’t use the zoom while filming – zoom in to the subject first; then start filming.
• Vary your shots – change your position between shots.
• Take your time – general scenes should last for between five and ten seconds, close-ups five seconds.
• Use lots of close-ups – these really capture the viewer’s attention.
• Change your angles – look for more exciting angles on a plain subject.
• Pan slowly from left to right – film the starting shot for a few seconds; then slowly pan from left to right and come to rest on the ending shot. Hold the ending shot still for a few more seconds then stop shooting.
• Avoid bright backlit subjects – your subject will appear in silhouette as the camera will over-compensate for the bright light source.
• Break up your scenes – use small segments to provide more interest to a scene.
• Use stills – try to mix some still photos with your video clips. other techniques

Aspects of the natural history of your local area may be found in books or magazines, or on the internet, but what about the wealth of experiences, opinions and memories locked away in the minds of local residents? Tapping into this resource may provide some fascinating and amusing anecdotes. It will also help plug the gaps in knowledge of local history, as well as giving current viewpoints on what living in the area means to people, both young and old.

Click here to view an anecdotal questionnaire distributed around the parishes of Melton Constable and Briston.

Why not invite local residents, school groups, landowners and visitors to take part in an oral history of your parish? All you will need is a recording device and a means of editing recordings. You can even create a CD/DVD which can be illustrated with still or moving images. Better still, you could combine a project to record moving images of your parish with one that overlays anecdotes from people who actually live in the places being portrayed. If you do not own any recording equipment, you may be able to borrow some from a local recording studio, oral history society or possibly the BBC (which sometimes runs projects with input from the local community).

It’s good to talk…

The following steps may help obtain maximum benefit from any voice recordings:

• Put your subject as ease – have a relaxed introductory chat about the subject before recording
• Prepare some standard questions so that the interviews have focus – questions like where the person was born, where they went/go to school, what they like about their parish and what their favourite wildlife memories are.
• Try not to interrupt the interviewee unless you feel the interview is wandering off subject.
• Make sure you maintain good eye contact with the interviewee unless you feel the interview is wandering off subject.
• Make sure you maintain good eye contact with the interviewee and encourage them by using positive body language (such as nodding and smiling).
• Ensure you get the interviewees’ written permission (or that of their guardian) to use the interview in your project. other techniques

There are so many reasons!

• Your records can help identify areas which are especially important for wildlife in your local area.
• They can provide up-to-date information on local wildlife and identify changes which may be linked to climate change, or factors such as local developments or new farming practices.
• They can help identify areas that local people feel should be protected.
• They can provide information which will help management and enhancement of local areas to benefit wildlife.
• You can create a baseline record which will enable future changes to be monitored.
• They can help identify species in decline or under threat.
• They can identify the sites of rare species and enable them to be protected – some species such as badgers, bats, water voles, great crested newts and rare nesting birds have existing legal protection, but if no one knows where they are then they can’t be protected.
• Wildlife records can be used to encourage local awareness, interest and pride in things that make your area special.
• They can help inform local conservation policies and may be relevant information if future developments are proposed or planning applications made.
• Surveys can be the starting point for future community conservation projects which will help celebrate and protect the wildlife and habitats you discover.

Recording is enjoyable and can be addictive! It is a way to further your enjoyment of wildlife in your local area and once you start recording you will almost certainly notice far more that you did before. It can also be a way of getting to know your local area better, meeting other people interested in wildlife and forming or joining a group to share and develop your identification skills and knowledge of wildlife. getting started

Surveys are often most valuable when they can be repeated over an extended period – this is why it is important that a clear record is kept of the method used to carry out the survey. By using the simple techniques we suggest on our website, your survey could be repeated at a future date by yourself - or others - to show how wildlife has changed over time.

If you, or your group, are able to repeat the same survey each year over a period of several years then you will be able to create an invaluable local record of what is happening to your wildlife. Even very simple surveys can become very valuable if they are repeated regularly in the same area over many years (see the case study about Robert Marsham).

getting started

Getting started on most wildlife surveys is no more dangerous than any other walk in the countryside! However, if you will be surveying alone, visiting remote areas, surveying near water or at night (or both) then there are clearly sensible safety precautions that should be taken. We have provided some general advice on how to think through a risk assessment for your survey – click here to find out more.

Each location may pose specific risks. Individuals and groups need to assess their own capabilities and experience (what is quite safe for one individual may not be safe for another) and identify any specific risks associated with the areas they are surveying. Hazards can vary from traffic through ticks trips and slips to falling trees. Please remember that it is your responsibility to ensure your own safety (and those of others that you ask to help) when carrying out any wildlife survey.

getting started

Once you are equipped to start surveying habitats you will need to make your own map. You will need to incorporate the main habitat areas in your map which will show at a glance the habitats present. The map can be annotated by codes and colours. Remember to keep it simple.

So what codes/colours should I use?

Below are listed the standard codes and colours as used by the Joint Nature Conservation Committee, for further information see: Handbook for Phase 1 Habitat Survey – A Technique for Environmental Audit (2007) or visit www.jncc.gov.uk/page-2468

Habitat	Code	Colour
Arable/farmland Woodland Scrub Grassland Amenity Grassland Bracken/nettles Heathland Spring/fen Standing Water Running Water Hedgerow	A A1 A2 B A J G2 E G1 D C	No Colour Dark Green Green Hatch Yellow Orange Brown Yellow Purple Blue Blue Green Line

You may decide to identify the types of habitat in more detail than shown above. For example, separating deciduous woodland from coniferous woodland is quite straightforward. Separating different types of grassland can be tricky, but with practice it is fairly easy to distinguish between improved grassland and semi-improved and unimproved grassland, which are important habitats for wildlife.

Create target notes

As well as marking your map with colours/codes, you can also indicate key items such as an ancient tree by including a target note.

Mark each target note with a number on your map and on a separate sheet of paper record what it is and the reason for including it as a target note. You can also include key species that you may spot during your survey such as an unusual plant or maybe a barn owl flying overhead.

End result – digitising or colouring in the main map

Once the survey is complete, a map showing the whole parish can then be marked up. The map will then show at a glance the key habitats in your local area.

Bird Feeding Tips:
Firstly, and if you have sufficient storage space, it is far more cost-effective to buy bird food in bulk. Birds need high fat foods such as peanuts, seeds, fat balls and meal worms, which you can get from garden centres and pet shops. Niger seeds and sunflower hearts may seem expensive but, because there is no waste, these foods can be more economical. Store your bird food in a cool, dry, secure place.

Kitchen scraps such as bacon fat, bruised apples and pears, cooked potato, grated cheese, cake crumbs (including left over Christmas cake), raisins, cooked rice and pastry are also welcome; a variety of foods will attract different species of birds. Please ensure that you continue putting out food once you have started as the birds will come to rely on it.

Feeders:
It is important to keep feeders topped up, especially first thing in the morning, when birds are active and replacing energy lost overnight. Fill feeders with peanuts, seed mixes, sunflower hearts and fat balls (don’t use fat balls in nets; birds can get their feet caught in them). Additionally, goldfinches – if you have any nearby – can be attracted with Niger seeds.

Try and put bird feeders in a sheltered spot in the garden, away from the cold wind and well out of the reach of cats. Also use squirrel-proof feeders if squirrels are regular visitors to your garden. Larger feeders are easier to maintain because they don’t need filling up so often; however, if the food is not eaten quickly or adequately sheltered, it may grow mouldy. If any seeds at the bottom of the feeder become soggy, throw them out and let the feeder dry out before you refill it. Rather than rushing to refill feeders during the day, keep a tray underneath them; many seeds will spill throughout the course of the day, and ground-feeding birds can be encouraged to pick these up. Make sure to avoid the spread of disease by cleaning feeders and bird tables regularly.

Ground food:
Because not all birds use feeders, a sprinkling of food on the ground or on a bird table – provided that there are no cats around – will be beneficial. Do not put too much food out on the ground, however, as any which is left over at the end of the day may attract rats.

Garden:
Don’t keep your garden too tidy! Leave seed heads and berries on plants and leave nest boxes up as roosting sites.

Water:
Birds need a supply of clean water every day; not just to drink, but also to wash in. Use bowls if you do not a have a bird bath, and try adding small twigs or ping pong balls to the water – the movement of this makeshift flotsam will prevent the surface of the water from freezing over. Do not use any salt or antifreeze products, as antifreeze is a poison that is lethal to both wildlife and pets.